In 2008, I had the incredible opportunity to climb Mount Lhotse (8,516m), the fourth highest mountain in the world. Lhotse is closely connected to Mount Everest, sharing most of its route up to Camp 3 (7,400m) on the South Col Route. However, Lhotse’s final ascent is much steeper and more technical than Everest, making it a challenging but rewarding climb.
The expedition began with the classic trek through the Khumbu Valley, passing through Lukla, Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, Dingboche, and finally reaching Everest Base Camp (5,364m). Since Lhotse shares the same route as Everest until the upper sections, we spent weeks acclimatizing and preparing for the technical climb ahead.
Following the Everest route, we climbed through:
Camp 1 (6,065m): A tough climb through the Khumbu Icefall, where massive ice towers and deep crevasses made progress slow and risky.
Camp 2 (6,400m): Located in the Western Cwm, this camp provided stunning views but was extremely hot during the day.
Camp 3 (7,400m): A steep ascent up the Lhotse Face, where we had to use fixed ropes and ice tools to climb the nearly vertical ice wall. From here, instead of heading towards the South Col for Everest, we moved towards Lhotse’s summit route.
The final section of Lhotse was extremely steep and technical. The Lhotse Couloir (8,000m+), a narrow, ice-filled gully, was the toughest part of the climb. Climbing at such high altitude on near-vertical ice walls was exhausting, but after hours of pushing through the thin air and biting cold, I finally reached the summit of Lhotse (8,516m).
The feeling of standing on the fourth highest peak in the world, surrounded by Everest, Makalu, and Cho Oyu, was unforgettable. The climb was physically brutal but deeply fulfilling, proving that Lhotse is not just an Everest alternative but a formidable mountain in its own right.
Technical Climbing: The Lhotse Couloir required precise ice-climbing skills at extreme altitude.
Steep Ice Walls: Unlike Everest’s relatively gradual slopes, Lhotse’s final section was near-vertical.
Extreme Cold & Wind: Climbing above 8,000m with strong winds and freezing temperatures made every step harder.
