In 2019, I successfully summited Mount Kanchenjunga (8,586m), the third-highest peak in the world, located in the eastern Himalayas on the Nepal-India border. Kanchenjunga is known for its remote location, difficult technical sections, and unpredictable weather, making it one of the most challenging and rewarding climbs I’ve undertaken.
The journey to Kanchenjunga began with a flight to Bhadrapur, followed by an overland drive to Taplejung. From there, we embarked on a trek through remote villages and pristine landscapes, passing through dense forests, high-altitude meadows, and beautiful Tibetan villages. After 10 days of trekking, we reached Kanchenjunga Base Camp (5,100m), nestled between glaciers and towering peaks.
Kanchenjunga’s ascent involves a combination of technical rock climbing, ice climbing, and navigating challenging ridges. The route was long and demanding, with the weather being one of the major obstacles.
Base Camp to Camp 1 (6,000m): The initial climb involved navigating through glacier sections and crevasses, requiring careful navigation.
Camp 1 to Camp 2 (6,400m): This section was steep and ice-covered, with fixed ropes to aid in the ascent.
Camp 2 to Camp 3 (7,200m): This part was marked by rocky ridges and extremely cold winds, which made progress slow and exhausting.
Camp 3 to Camp 4 (7,800m): The climb was very exposed, requiring technical rock and ice climbing.
Camp 4 to Summit (8,586m): The final ascent was extremely challenging, with high-altitude winds, ice, and snow making it difficult to maintain a steady pace.
The summit push was initiated early in the morning in hopes of reaching the peak before the harsh weather worsened. Despite heavy snow and strong winds, we pushed on with determination. The final sections were particularly difficult, with narrow ridges and steep inclines.
After several hours of climbing, we reached the summit of Kanchenjunga (8,586m). Standing at the third-highest point on Earth, surrounded by panoramic views of Everest, Makalu, Lhotse, and other towering peaks, was a humbling and awe-inspiring moment.
Extreme Weather: The high winds and snowstorms made climbing especially tough, requiring us to adapt to rapidly changing conditions.
Altitude & Oxygen Deprivation: As we pushed beyond 7,500m, the lack of oxygen became more evident, and the physical effort needed for each step increased dramatically.
Technical Climbing: The route required advanced skills in rock climbing, ice climbing, and crevasse navigation, particularly in high-altitude conditions.
