In 2017, I attempted to climb Mount Kanchenjunga (8,586m), the third-highest peak in the world, located in eastern Nepal, near the India-Nepal border. Kanchenjunga is known for its remote location, technical climbing sections, unpredictable weather, and extreme altitude challenges.
The expedition began with a flight to Bhadrapur, followed by a long and difficult trek through dense forests, remote villages, and high-altitude passes. After nearly two weeks of trekking, we reached Kanchenjunga Base Camp (5,400m).
The climb was extremely demanding, with steep ice walls, dangerous crevasses, and harsh weather conditions.
Camp 1 (6,200m): A long climb from Base Camp, passing through massive icefalls and deep snow.
Camp 2 (6,400m): A technical section with steep ice climbing and avalanche-prone areas.
Camp 3 (7,000m): Strong winds and extreme cold made survival difficult.
Camp 4 (7,500m): The final camp before the summit push. At this altitude, oxygen levels were dangerously low.
We started the summit push at midnight, but extreme weather conditions, strong winds, and deep snow slowed our progress. At around 8,300m, just below the final ridge, we faced dangerous whiteout conditions and worsening winds, making it too risky to continue.
For safety reasons, we made the difficult decision to turn back.
Extreme Cold & High Winds: Frostbite risk increased as winds exceeded 60 km/h.
Deep Snow & Avalanche Risks: Heavy snowfall made movement difficult.
Altitude & Oxygen Deprivation: At over 8,000m, each step felt exhausting.
