Island Peak (6,189m) – 2019 Climbing Experience

Island Peak (6,189m) – 2019 Climbing Experience

In 2019, I successfully climbed Island Peak (6,189m), also known as Imja Tse, one of the most popular trekking peaks in Nepal. Located in the Khumbu region, near Everest Base Camp, Island Peak is an excellent introduction to high-altitude mountaineering, offering technical ice climbing, stunning glacier routes, and breathtaking Himalayan views.

Preparation and Approach:

The journey began with a flight to Lukla (2,860m), followed by a trek through the Khumbu Valley, passing Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, and Dingboche. After a few days of acclimatization, I reached Island Peak Base Camp (5,100m).

The Ascent:

The climb involved a steep glacier section, crevasses, and a final exposed ridge.

  • Base Camp to High Camp (5,500m): A rocky and steep trail, with loose scree.

  • High Camp to Crampon Point: A challenging steep rock scramble, leading to the glacier.

  • Glacier & Ice Climb: The most technical part, requiring ropes, crampons, and fixed ladders over crevasses.

  • Final Summit Ridge: A narrow, exposed ridge leading to the summit of Island Peak (6,189m).

Summit & Challenges:

  • Altitude & Thin Air: Breathing became difficult above 5,500m.

  • Glacier Navigation: Deep crevasses and icefalls required careful rope work.

  • Cold & Winds: The windy summit ridge made the final push tough.