In 2009, I embarked on another expedition to Mount Lhotse (8,501m), the fourth highest mountain in the world. Connected to Mount Everest, Lhotse shares much of its route with Everest until the Lhotse Face, where it diverges into a steeper and more technical climb. Unlike Everest, Lhotse is known for its dangerous couloir, sheer ice walls, and limited summit space, making it a physically demanding and mentally challenging climb.
The journey started with the classic trek to Everest Base Camp (5,364m) via Lukla, Namche Bazaar, and Dingboche. This familiar route allowed for proper acclimatization before moving higher. After spending days adjusting to the altitude, we progressed to Advanced Base Camp (5,900m) and then to Camp 1 (6,065m) beyond the Khumbu Icefall.
The route up Lhotse followed the standard Everest South Col Route until Camp 3, with challenging sections including:
Camp 2 (6,400m) – Western Cwm: An extremely hot and exposed section where daytime temperatures felt like a desert despite the high altitude.
Camp 3 (7,400m) – Lhotse Face: The climb up the Lhotse Face was brutal—a steep 1,200-meter ice wall, requiring fixed ropes and careful footwork.
The final summit push started from Camp 4 (7,900m), leading to the infamous Lhotse Couloir (8,000m+). This narrow, ice-filled gully is one of the most technical and dangerous sections of the climb. Strong winds, rockfall, and near-vertical ice walls made progress slow and exhausting.
After navigating the icy bottleneck, I finally reached the summit of Lhotse (8,501m). The summit itself was small and exposed, with jaw-dropping views of Everest, Makalu, and the surrounding Himalayan giants. The exhaustion was overwhelming, but the sense of achievement was unmatched.
Steep, Icy Terrain: The Lhotse Face and Couloir required technical ice-climbing skills.
Rockfall Danger: The Couloir was unstable, with frequent falling ice and rocks.
Extreme Cold & Thin Air: Climbing above 8,000m with limited oxygen made every step a challenge.
Climbing Lhotse in 2009 was an unforgettable experience, pushing my physical limits and technical skills. Unlike Everest, which has a long, gradual ascent, Lhotse’s final climb was intense and direct, making it one of the most difficult yet rewarding climbs in my mountaineering journey.
