In 2007, I attempted Mount Everest (8,848m) from the North Side, which is considered more technical and challenging than the traditional South route. The North Route, located in Tibet, is known for its harsh winds, extreme cold, and the treacherous final summit ridge. Unlike the Nepal side, this route does not have the dangerous Khumbu Icefall, but it requires a longer, steeper ascent with several high-altitude camps.
The expedition began with a drive from Kathmandu to Lhasa, followed by a journey across the Tibetan Plateau to reach Everest Base Camp (5,150m). The vast, barren landscape and constant high altitude made acclimatization difficult. After several days of adjusting, we moved to Advanced Base Camp (6,400m), one of the highest base camps in the world.
The climb followed the North Ridge route, with multiple high-altitude camps:
Camp 1 (7,000m) – Intermediate Camp: The climb was over rocky moraines and icy slopes.
Camp 2 (7,600m) – North Col: A steep ascent led to the North Col, a crucial point in the climb. Strong winds battered our tents, and breathing became increasingly difficult.
Camp 3 (8,300m) – The Death Zone: The climb to this camp was brutal. The lack of oxygen made every step exhausting, and the temperature dropped below -30°C.
We left Camp 3 at midnight for the final summit push. The first challenge was the steep, icy slopes leading to the First, Second, and Third Steps—a series of rock and ice obstacles at extreme altitude. The Second Step (8,610m) was the most difficult, requiring fixed ropes and a metal ladder to ascend a near-vertical rock face.
The final section was the long, exhausting ridge to the summit. After hours of slow, painful climbing, I finally reached the top of the world—Mount Everest (8,848m). From the summit, the view was surreal, with the entire Himalaya range stretching beneath me. The wind was fierce, the air was thin, but the feeling of standing on the highest point on Earth was indescribable.
Extreme Cold and Wind: The North Side is colder and windier than the South Route.
Technical Climbing: The steep rock sections and Second Step ladder required strength and precision.
Limited Oxygen: The high camps on the North Side are at a much higher altitude, making acclimatization harder.
