In 2006, I had the incredible opportunity to climb Mount Shishapangma, the 14th highest mountain in the world at 8,013 meters. Located entirely in Tibet, Shishapangma is often considered one of the most accessible 8,000-meter peaks, but it still posed significant challenges due to high altitude, unpredictable weather, and technical sections near the summit.
The journey started with a drive from Kathmandu to Tibet, passing through Zhangmu and Nyalam, where we spent a few days acclimatizing. From there, we continued to Shishapangma Base Camp (5,000m). The Tibetan plateau offered stunning views, but the high altitude made every step exhausting.
After further acclimatization, we moved to Advanced Base Camp (5,600m), which served as the main hub for our summit attempt. The weather was harsh, with strong winds and freezing temperatures making even basic activities challenging.
The standard northwest ridge route involved multiple high-altitude camps:
Camp 1 (6,400m): A steep but manageable climb over a glacier, with deep crevasses and exposed ridges.
Camp 2 (7,100m): The climb to this camp was more challenging, requiring fixed ropes on icy sections. The altitude made acclimatization difficult, and strong winds tested our endurance.
Camp 3 (7,400m): The final high camp before the summit push. The cold was extreme, and oxygen levels were dangerously low.
We started our summit push early in the morning. The initial climb was steady, but the final section—the summit ridge—was one of the most technical parts of the climb. The true main summit (8,013m) required traversing a steep and exposed ridge, which was extremely dangerous due to the strong winds and unstable snow conditions. Many climbers stop at the central summit (8,008m), but we pushed forward carefully and reached the true summit.
Standing on top of Shishapangma, I was rewarded with unforgettable views of the Tibetan Plateau, Everest, Cho Oyu, and other 8,000-meter peaks. It was a moment of pure triumph and gratitude.
High Altitude: Oxygen levels were extremely low, making every movement exhausting.
Unpredictable Weather: Strong winds and sudden storms made the climb risky.
Technical Summit Ridge: The final section required careful navigation on a narrow, exposed ridge.
